Triana, the gypsy quarter

Triana, the gypsy quarter

Famous for its strong identity, the neighborhood of Triana it is even known as the "independent republic of Triana". Most likely it owes its name to the Roman emperor Trajan, who was born in nearby Italica, an ancient Roman settlement 9 kilometers from Seville.

The district is located across the Guadalquivir River, and can be reached by crossing the Isabel II Bridge.

Following the market on the right, you will arrive in the center of the district.

By the way, the market is a great place to sample Iberian ham, cheese, olives and other specialties.

What to see in Triana

The Castillo San Jorge

The market is built on the site of the prison, the Castle San Jorge, once the seat of the Inquisition. Today the Castillo has become a museum.

The museum essentially consists of the remains of the old prison. Inside there is an exhibition that explains in detail what happened during the period of the Inquisition, when Triana saw thousands of souls imprisoned over the years only to be burned at the stake.

Along the way, an audio guide is available which tells episodes, anecdotes and curiosities in different languages: the museum aims to revive the life conditions of the heretics, who lived their days imprisoned in cells.

Admission to the museum is free, while the opening hours are from day to day.

Altozano Square

Crossing the bridge, going past Anibal Gonzalez's chapel Virgen del Carmen, protector of sailors, you arrive in Altozano Square, with its glass balconies called miradores (literally windows to look at).

This was a traditional meeting point for the flamenco singers in the 19th century. Near this square there are some streets such as Calles Callao, Antillano Campos and Alfareria, where there are the few pottery workshops still open.

The churches and religious monuments

There are several churches to visit near the Guidalquivir River in Triana. The most famous is that of Our Lady of the O. Don't miss the astonishing statue of Christ crucified by Gijón, known as El Cachorro (the cub). Around the neck of Christ, a tortoise cross, a gift from some sailors saved from a shipwreck.

La Church of Santa Ana, near Calle Betis, is the oldest church in Triana, dating back to 1276. It was built by Alfonso X as a sign of gratitude, for being cured of a serious eye infection.

Throughout Seville, being a very religious city, it will be easy to see statues of the Virgin Mary. One of the most popular is that ofTriana's Hope: the locals also pay tribute to her on a daily basis. The statue is located at the Chapel of the Sailors (in calle Pureza al numero 53).

North of Triana, in the Cartuja area, is finally the Monastery of Santa Maria de Las Cuevas, which houses the Andalusian Center of Contemporary Art (CAAC).

The azulejos of Triana

Triana is known for her tiling, ceramic tiles, produced in artisan workshops, which already in ancient times used the mud from the river bank to make them.

Almost all the tiles present in the monuments, churches, public and private places of Seville were made here, but today the ceramic activity has slowed down considerably, and only a few craftsmen remain active.

Triana is also famous for its sailors, bullfighters and flamenco dancers. The neighborhood is considered the spiritual heart of this dance: it is here that you can attend some of the most authentic shows in the city.

In the footsteps of the gypsy community

A community of gypsies he lived in the neighborhood for a long time; long ago, in fact, gypsies were not allowed inside the walls of Seville.

As you wander through the narrow streets of the district, take a look at the old common courtyards where the gypsy communities lived, Neighbors corrals. Around these courtyards, there were small rooms, which were used for washing and cooking.

Calle Betis and the nightlife

Triana's rich past has been transformed into a vibrant present today. The streets during the day are invaded by kiosks selling tapas, while in the evening the nightlife of Betis Street it is among the liveliest in the city.

Do not miss

Calle Betis, which runs parallel to the river, offers beautiful views of Seville, in particular on the Torre del Oro, the Plaza de Toros and the Giralda.


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